Map of the Canberra Wine District
After a full day of city/coastal/southern highlands meandering, Mr Nomad, Charlie and I arrived at the Ginninderry Homestead run by the very amiable Sue and Amelia. This mother daughter team have created a beautiful, grand and inviting B&B. The clincher? Dog friendly! Charlie was more than welcome and was very much at home with the resident dogs and the running stream going through the property. Travelling with dog has it's challenges, mainly where to lay our heads...
I should point out that our car has some very strict guidelines. Firstly, I am the navigator de jour, Mr Nomad is the driver and Charlie demands the driver window be opened whenever he so wishes. Despite the cold Canberra evenings and crisp morning breeze, if Charlie decides he needs fresh air, Mr Nomad obliges him and hence the window can goes up and down like a yo-yo.
HILLS OF HALL
About 15 minutes from Ginninderry, our first stop on our self-made wine tour is Brindabella Hills. Established in 1986, Roger and Faye Harris have created a beautiful introduction to this region. One of the first notable stops on the way to Murrumbateman, we take in the view over the Brindabella Range and the Murrumbidgee Lake, a breathtaking vista as we begin tasting very young, quality wines.
While I'm not a rosé drinker (I say this however the cellar now has a whole section dedicated to Australian Rosé - I think its because I never know what to cook for it...), the Brindabella Hills 2008 Wild Rosé is a beautiful example. A blend of Cabernet Franc and the emerging Italian variety Sangiovese, a beautiful rose bouquet and rose flavour comes through. After commenting on the intense nose of this wine, Roger informs us that wines produced in the "Hills of Hall" area are known for the strong aromas.
Rosé looks set to become the drink of choice for ladies who lunch. Easy to drink, pretty to look at and drinkable with most lunch options - your salads, right through to your steak and lamb options.
Brindabella Hills
2008 Wild Rose
13% alcohol
Price $18
The Aureus Chardonnay Viognier was exceptional. The first time I had tasted a blend of the two, this drop is well worth seeking out. Apricot flavours with a very long line, this wine will age very well.
Brindabella Hills
2008 Aureus Chardonnay Viognier
13% alcohol
Price: $20
Driving out of Brindabella Hills winery and back towards the Barton Highway another winery caught my attention, Pankhurst Wines. Two things struck me about this winery - first being a family owned, small production winery using two prominent wine makers - Sue Carpenter and Dr Roger Harris, and secondly the amazing vista. Hence my disappointment when we arrive at the cellar door. There are glimpses between the shed, that doubles as the cellar door, and the family home, but a beautiful large window or deck here would truly make this a destination winery for the region.
So to the wine. Having an array of whites and reds to sample including a sparkling Cabernet, made for an interesting tasting experience. Mr Nomad has a marked affinity for said drop as did our fellow tasters, so there was a lot of talk on what to eat while imbibing. Duck with plum sauce and star anise seemed to be the stand out which had us buying a bottle. It was quite dry and intriguing though the bubbles in a sparkling red really just confuse me. However I am in the minority - I have noticed sparkling reds popping up in a myriad of grape varieties - this being the first sparkling cabernet I've come across.
Pankhurst Wines
2004 The Adela Sparkling Cabernet
Price: $25.00
MURRUMBATEMAN
Next stop is a stalwart of the region. Shaw Vineyard has had very favourable reviews from Australia's top wine commentators so I was looking forward to some true examples of the region. Now if small, quaint or 'boutique' is what you are looking for this is not the place. If you happen to be with a large group of people or need to load up on some carbs to soldier on to surrounding vineyards this is your place. People everywhere and the staff are very attentive and swift in their approach. At the onsite restaurant Flint in the Vines (sister restaurant to Flint Dining Room and Bar in Canberra), pizzas are flying out of the wood fired oven and salads tossed with aplomb.
On to the cellar door, this is not a winery where I'm talking to Mr. Graeme Shaw himself. Shaw is well passed the one man show that a much younger label would involve. This is a professional operation where the staff representing the vineyard are knowledgeable about what is on tasting but miss that inescapable passion of the winemaker themselves. The Sparkling Semillon - Cielo which has no year associated is a quality quaffing sparkling style that suits the Australian summer requisite bubbles at the afternoon BBQ.
Shaw Vineyard
Cielo - Sparkling Semillon
Price: $20
A garrulous Ken Helm greeted us at his Helm Wine cellar door like he was welcoming us in to his lounge room. Lo and behold this is not a lounge room or really a cellar door in the traditional sense but a school! From 1888 when this building was erected until 1940 this was the Toual School House. It was removed and then returned by the Helm family in the 1980's. How do I know this? Courtesy of Ken, who has a way with words, a taste for history and a treasure trove of Trivia.
Charlie at Helm Winery
Ken Helm was awarded an Order of Australia in 2010 for his contribution to the Australian wine industry. With a passion for Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and the Canberra Wine Region this was truly an experience to savor. A proud father of three who has daughter Stephanie as his fellow wine maker, Stephanie's Selection 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon is exceptional. Bold, peppery and ready to drink now, this is a wonderful example of the reds being produced in the region.
Here, the prices reflect the quality, reputation and sheer tenacity of wine producers who has hung in there when most other land owners in the region grazing sheep and cattle thought their grape growing neighbours crazy. Well worth the extra coin, you really can't go wrong with an of the wines in the Helm stable and, even thought they're ready to drink upon release, would also benefit with a little lie down.
Helm Wines
2006 Stephanie's Selection Cabernet Sauvignon
14% alcohol
Price: $52
From one of the regions most established wineries to one of the youngest, Yarrh Wines. Yarrh translates to "running water" in the local Aboriginal dialect and Fiona Wholohan, the chief winemaker, is producing quality wines from young vines, including this sweet, acidic Riesling.
Yarrh Wines
2010 Canberra District Riesling
11% alcohol
Price:$18
With the sky ablaze courtesy of the afternoon sun, we headed back to Ginninderry Homestead for a quick kip prior to dinner at Grazing Restaurant.
Sunset over the Brindabella Hills
Now Ginninderry and Grazing are not close together, however Mr Nomad, knowing my affinity for finding the best, willingly drove the forty kilometres, on small pitch black country back roads with all manner of native Australian wildlife that have an affinity for getting up close and personal with the oncoming bright lights of a motor vehicle screaming along at 100kph, for a good meal and the elusive Collector Shiraz. Here, we found both. If ever you see a Collector Shiraz on a wine list do yourself, and your dining companion, a favour. Grazing Restaurant grows a lot of their own vegetables and herbs and use as much local produce as possible - not hard considering the region!
Mr Nomad had the stand out entreé of house made felafel which was smokey and accompanied by a rustic ratatouille, while my main of confit duck leg with smoked duck breast with cauliflower and black sausage was crisp and full of flavour.
Mr Nomad had the stand out entreé of house made felafel which was smokey and accompanied by a rustic ratatouille, while my main of confit duck leg with smoked duck breast with cauliflower and black sausage was crisp and full of flavour.
Collector
2009 Marked Tree Shiraz
13% alcohol
Price: $26
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