Movida Melbourne

1 Hosier Lane
Melbourne 3000
www.movida.com.au

The ideal Saturday is spent exploring this beloved city with nothing but time on your hands and an empty stomach. Lucky for me, my saturday in Melbourne filled the criteria. A morning of croissants from Babka followed by hours of walking the intricate lane ways of the city ending in Hosier Lane and hello Movida. 

This has to be one of my favourite city restaurants. Movida opened in 2003 and has been on the up ever since. I love to sit at the sub-terranean bar and watch people (read: wedding parties) walk up and down the cobbled laneway splayed with graffiti. 

Hosier Lane

Mr Nomad and I came here on our first trip to Melbourne many moons ago so this is a sentimental fave, the food and wine living up to the memory. Now I am not an anchovy girl but I'm working on it. The larger white anchovy option yes, the darker, more pungent option is in the 'very rarely if ever' category. Yet put these little suckers of salty, fishy goodness on a piece of toasted sourdough with a dollop of smoked tomato sorbet and you have a burst of flavour that coats the tastebuds and welcomes that first sip of Spanish Tempranillo that complete the picture. The Marques de Riscal 'Reserva' is a well rounded, deep cherry coloured drop with soft tannins. Not so well matched to the wonderful Pollo Escabache al Miguel - spiced chicken (perhaps the 2010 Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Chardonnay from Stathbogie Ranges Victoria may have suited?) but I couldn't go past this tasty mouthful. 

2008

Glaymond 'El Abuelo'

Granache
Barossa Valley

2005
Marques de Riscal 'Reserva'

Tempranillo

Rioja Spain

Then the 'main' meal - Raciones. Movida is a Spanish tapas restaurant which divides its dishes between 'Tapa' and 'Raciones'. Not huge, but not small. Perfect to share. The Pulpo - chargrilled   octopus with house made chorizo and chickpeas is a taste sensation - always one for surf and turf, the octopi and swine combination is fast becoming a personal favourite. The earthiness of the chickpeas created a well balanced dish.  

Finally, having spent some time in Spain last year, seeing Jamon aged 24 months with Pan Catalan brought back memories of hot summer days in Barcelona's El Born district eating plates full of jamon with tomato and garlic covered toast. And this is what we got - huge thumbs up for this simple combination which showcases the produce. The Jamones is from the Carrasco family in Spain using only the finest 'Paletilla' which is only the meat from the front legs of the Iberico pigs. These are a certain breed of pig bred in a small area of Spain who feed on 'bellota' or acorns. 

Image/ finofoodandwine 

This dish came just in time to try the 2008 Glaymond 'El Abuelo'

Granache from the Barossa Valley. Silky smooth with a punch of pepper and spices and the earthy aroma of a well balanced grenaché, could not have been more perfect with the tart tomato and salty jamon. Almost felt like we were eating this wine!

With our bellies full and our whistles wet, we emerge to a greying Melbourne afternoon where we roll in to the taxi just in time before the heavens really do unleash. 

Canberra Wine District - Day 1

Whod’ve thunk it? When discussing our holiday plans with friends the general reaction was "Canberra? For wine?!" With just a dash of smugness we’re off. Yes, Canberra District - I say district because most of the actual wineries are in New South Wales. This cool climate wine district, a 2.5hr - 3hr drive south of Sydney, consists of 3 main areas - Murrumbateman, Hall and Bungendore/Lake George roughly about 3 hours from Sydney.

Map of the Canberra Wine District

After a full day of city/coastal/southern highlands meandering, Mr Nomad, Charlie and I arrived at the Ginninderry Homestead run by the very amiable Sue and Amelia. This mother daughter team have created a beautiful, grand and inviting B&B. The clincher? Dog friendly! Charlie was more than welcome and was very much at home with the resident dogs and the running stream going through the property. Travelling with dog has it's challenges, mainly where to lay our heads...

I should point out that our car has some very strict guidelines. Firstly, I am the navigator de jour, Mr Nomad is the driver and Charlie demands the driver window be opened whenever he so wishes. Despite the cold Canberra evenings and crisp morning breeze, if Charlie decides he needs fresh air, Mr Nomad obliges him and hence the window can goes up and down like a yo-yo.

HILLS OF HALL

About 15 minutes from Ginninderry, our first stop on our self-made wine tour is Brindabella Hills. Established in 1986, Roger and Faye Harris have created a beautiful introduction to this region. One of the first notable stops on the way to Murrumbateman, we take in the view over the Brindabella Range and the Murrumbidgee Lake, a breathtaking vista as we begin tasting very young, quality wines.

While I'm not a rosé drinker (I say this however the cellar now has a whole section dedicated to Australian Rosé - I think its because I never know what to cook for it...), the Brindabella Hills 2008 Wild Rosé is a beautiful example. A blend of Cabernet Franc and the emerging Italian variety Sangiovese, a beautiful rose bouquet and rose flavour comes through. After commenting on the intense nose of this wine, Roger informs us that wines produced in the "Hills of Hall" area are known for the strong aromas.

Rosé looks set to become the drink of choice for ladies who lunch. Easy to drink, pretty to look at and drinkable with most lunch options - your salads, right through to your steak and lamb options. 

Brindabella Hills

2008 Wild Rose

13% alcohol

Price $18

The Aureus Chardonnay Viognier was exceptional. The first time I had tasted a blend of the two, this drop is well worth seeking out. Apricot flavours with a very long line, this wine will age very well.

Brindabella Hills

2008 Aureus Chardonnay Viognier

13% alcohol

Price: $20

Driving out of Brindabella Hills winery and back towards the Barton Highway another winery caught my attention, Pankhurst Wines. Two things struck me about this winery - first being a family owned, small production winery using two prominent wine makers - Sue Carpenter and Dr Roger Harris, and secondly the amazing vista. Hence my disappointment when we arrive at the cellar door. There are glimpses between the shed, that doubles as the cellar door, and the family home, but a beautiful large window or deck here would truly make this a destination winery for the region. 

So to the wine. Having an array of whites and reds to sample including a sparkling Cabernet, made for an interesting tasting experience. Mr Nomad has a marked affinity for said drop as did our fellow tasters, so there was a lot of talk on what to eat while imbibing. Duck with plum sauce and star anise seemed to be the stand out which had us buying a bottle. It was quite dry and intriguing though the bubbles in a sparkling red really just confuse me. However I am in the minority - I have noticed sparkling reds popping up in a myriad of grape varieties - this being the first sparkling cabernet I've come across.

Pankhurst Wines

2004 The Adela Sparkling Cabernet

Price: $25.00 

MURRUMBATEMAN

Next stop is a stalwart of the region. Shaw Vineyard has had very favourable reviews from Australia's top wine commentators so I was looking forward to some true examples of the region. Now if small, quaint or  'boutique' is what you are looking for this is not the place. If you happen to be with a large group of people or need to load up on some carbs to soldier on to surrounding vineyards this is your place. People everywhere and the staff are very attentive and swift in their approach. At the onsite restaurant Flint in the Vines (sister restaurant to Flint Dining Room and Bar in Canberra), pizzas are flying out of the wood fired oven and salads tossed with aplomb. 

On to the cellar door, this is not a winery where I'm talking to Mr. Graeme Shaw himself. Shaw is well passed the one man show that a much younger label would involve. This is a professional operation where the staff representing the vineyard are knowledgeable about what is on tasting but miss that inescapable passion of the winemaker themselves. The Sparkling Semillon - Cielo which has no year associated is a quality quaffing sparkling style that suits the Australian summer requisite bubbles at the afternoon BBQ. 

Shaw Vineyard

Cielo - Sparkling Semillon

Price: $20         

A garrulous Ken Helm greeted us at his Helm Wine cellar door like he was welcoming us in to his lounge room. Lo and behold this is not a lounge room or really a cellar door in the traditional sense but a school! From 1888 when this building was erected until 1940 this was the Toual School House. It was removed and then returned by the Helm family in the 1980's. How do I know this? Courtesy of Ken, who has a way with words, a taste for history and a treasure trove of Trivia. 

Charlie at Helm Winery

Ken Helm was awarded an Order of Australia in 2010 for his contribution to the Australian wine industry. With a passion for Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and the Canberra Wine Region this was truly an experience to savor. A proud father of three who has daughter Stephanie as his fellow wine maker, Stephanie's Selection 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon is exceptional. Bold, peppery and ready to drink now, this is a wonderful example of the reds being produced in the region. 

Here, the prices reflect the quality, reputation and sheer tenacity of wine producers who has hung in there when most other land owners in the region grazing sheep and cattle thought their grape growing neighbours crazy. Well worth the extra coin, you really can't go wrong with an of the wines in the Helm stable and, even thought they're ready to drink upon release, would also benefit with a little lie down.

Helm Wines

2006 Stephanie's Selection Cabernet Sauvignon

14% alcohol

Price: $52 

From one of the regions most established wineries to one of the youngest, Yarrh Wines. Yarrh translates to "running water" in the local Aboriginal dialect and  Fiona Wholohan, the chief winemaker, is producing quality wines from young vines, including this sweet, acidic Riesling.

Yarrh Wines

2010 Canberra District Riesling

11% alcohol

Price:$18 

With the sky ablaze courtesy of the afternoon sun, we headed back to Ginninderry Homestead for a quick kip prior to dinner at Grazing Restaurant. 

Sunset over the Brindabella Hills

Now Ginninderry and Grazing are not close together, however Mr Nomad, knowing my affinity for finding the best, willingly drove the forty kilometres, on small pitch black country back roads with all manner of native Australian wildlife that have an affinity for getting up close and personal with the oncoming bright lights of a motor vehicle screaming along at 100kph, for a good meal and the elusive Collector Shiraz. Here, we found both. If ever you see a Collector Shiraz on a wine list do yourself, and your dining companion, a favour. Grazing Restaurant grows a lot of their own vegetables and herbs and use as much local produce as possible - not hard considering the region! 


Mr Nomad had the stand out entreé of house made felafel which was smokey and accompanied by a rustic ratatouille, while my main of confit duck leg with smoked duck breast with cauliflower and black sausage was crisp and full of flavour. 

Collector

2009 Marked Tree Shiraz

13% alcohol

Price: $26 

Canberra Wine District - Day 2

To start our day, after umming and arring we went to what I like to call the Wild Card Entry. On such expeditions it is my responsibility to choose the wineries to visit and the order in which to visit them. I had a list of where I wanted to try and one kept popping up in my mind, really only because it sounds good. I knew nothing of the wine maker, the history, or what varieties they produce and there was very little information in the brochures that we had at hand. However when Mr Nomad asked for the directions to the next stop I got stuck at "turn left for Murrumbateman". We looked to be in the epicentre of the District and, with seemingly few roads off the Highway to get to the small clusters of wineries, I make a decision - "turn left on to Long Rail Gully Road". This is a nondescript left hand turn from the highway - no "WINERIES" signage or anything else alluding to my chosen destination. So it was with trepidation I say to Mr Nomad "keep going" and find myself on the receiving end of a sideways glance. After a few kilometres, and a quick pit stop to pick up some fresh figs, there it is, 'Long Rail Gully Wines'.

Long Rail Gully Vines

For a winery with very little marketing the wine and views are fantastic. Petra, an ex-Sydneysider, is our host for the tasting and demonstrates the Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Shiraz and Cabernet Merlot. Yes, this is a young winery with young wine, but the style and freshness of the wines shines through.  

Long Rail Gully 

2005 Riesling

11% alcohol

Price: $20

From the new and unencumbered to a winery that really is the flagship of the area. Clonakilla. What a delight. For a winery that has quite a cult following the charm of this place is palpable. 

Clonakilla Winery Murrumbateman

Hoping against hope that there be a stray bottle of Shiraz Viognier I am disappointed on this point. But only this point. It was a chance to taste the whole catalogue of wine on offer. The 2009 Viognier is savoury, subtle with beautiful spices and a depth of flavour. 

Clonakilla

2009 Canberra District Viognier 

14% alcohol

Price: $50

Note that the Shiraz Viognier 2011 is being released on the 1st September with a maximum of 3 bottles per person so gather your friends!

Our afternoon consisted of three more wineries Dionysus, Jier Creek and Gallagher Winery. All very good quality drops but my pick would be the Riesling from Jier Creek, Cabernet Sauvignon from Dionysus, and the Shiraz at Gallagher along with the view. Greg Gallagher was senior wine maker at Taltarni and makes very good quality, affordable wines while his wife's cheese is exceptional. We end our tasting day here and so, after spreading out the picnic basket, we open a jar of herbed labne balls, a bottle of Gallagher Shiraz, the sun is setting over the vineyard and, with Charlie running through the long grass we have pure bliss. I know - simple pleasures!

Charlie enjoying Gallagher Winery

Dionysus

2008 Cabernet Sauvignon

15% alcohol

Price: $22

Jier Creek

2010 Riesling

12% alcohol

Price $-- 

Gallagher Wines

2008 Shiraz

14% alcohol

Price: $21

Canberra Wine District - Day 3

We start the day at Ginninderry Homestead with a run by the creek that runs through property with our puppy. Charlie loves Ginninderry Homestead. He thinks this is how all dogs live...

We make our way to the gateway of the city of Canberra where Eden Road Wines is located. This has neither the look nor feel of a winery, more a bolt hole for bureaucrats, but fear not, after establishing their brand Eden Road have now purchased some terrior, their first vines behind Clonakilla in what will prove to be the epicentre of Canberra wine.

I had heard the rumblings about this wine. I had seen the very eye-catching label of Eden Road wines but had not yet tasted the fruits of Eden Road’s labour and, upon arrival, we had winemaker Nick Spencer, along with his cheeky Staffordshire Terrier Bruno, ready to introduce us to this rising star in the Australian wine firmament. It was the icing on the cake really. This is why I love the emerging wine regions – there is more chance of meeting the wine maker, and their dogs. You can feel their passion as they describe what it takes. Amazing!

Eden Road - Current Location

 Eden Road

The Long Road

2009 Canberra District Shiraz

14% alcohol

Price: $21

From one of the quietest to one of the busiest places in the district - Lerida Estate. This place was heaving. The winery was designed by Glen Mercutt, Australia’s only Pritzker Prize winning architect, so to me this had all the aspects I look for when travelling - architecture, wine, and a beautiful view.

As fabulous as it was for Lerida to be so busy it was a very harried experience in trying to savour some wine. With a wide selection of wines available to taste the stand out of me was their Pinot Noir - the Cullerin and the Josephine from 2008 vintage. Both outstanding, the Cullerin is a little better value for the money. The view across Lake George priceless. 

 

View across Lake George from Lerida Estate

Lerida Estate

2008 Cullerin Pinot Noir

13% alcohol

Price: $35

From Lake George we headed back towards The ACT to Mount Majura, a winery at the foot of, you guessed it, Mount Majura. The wines were amazing - from the Riesling to the Shiraz, beautiful depth of flavour, sophisticated, clean crafted wines. My gripe with this experience was that Mr Nomad and I were seated at a small table where the wine names were printed on a sheet and we place our glasses over the wines we would like to try. Some people like to taste like this. I like to talk to the person behind the counter. I like to learn about their philosophy, what the winery is trying to achieve and what they represent. That is difficult to achieve in this environment. But what the hell, good wine!

Mount Majura

2009 Tempranillo, Shiraz, Graciano (T.S.G.)       

14% alcohol

Price $23

Our final winery of the trip is to the Biodynamic Certified Winery Lark Hill. Sue Carpenter, Lark Hill owner and our host for the day was a delight. Sue informed us that she used to be a statistician who studied dingoes (??). When Sue proceeded to examine Charlie's jaw to see if there is dingo in his ancestry (which is what we've been told – he’s a pound puppy after all), it was declared that his jaw was wider like a dingo so it was a possibility. Charlie just sat there like a good dingo.

 

“Hi, my name’s Charlie”

Having never tried a Gruner Veltliner this was an eye opener, Austrian grape varieties have not crossed my path too often. If you can get a hold of a bottle or two it will be well worth the effort. You will be greeted with tartness and a fine minerality. I look forward to paring it with Thai food - the octopus salad full of chilli, herbs, sweet and sour flavours.

Their Shiraz Viognier sold out months ago and their Merlot is also fine drop. 

Lark Hill

2010 Gruner Veltliner

12% alcohol

Price $45

The Canberra District was a surprise and a delight. A beautiful region where the crisp air and the rolling hills meet to create wines of depth, flavour and aroma. Clonakilla is a must for the region but there are many up and coming wines which are worth trying. Murrumbateman looks set to become the epicentre and with a few more great restaurants, cafes and the B&B this could rival the Hunter and Orange for the NSW wine weekend dollar.