Margaret River Escapade

After 6 days of this:

Cape Levique

and this:

James Price Point

And a little more of this:

From Coco Eco Retreat

To 4 days of Margaret River bliss. From Broome up to Cape Levique and back, Mr Nomad and I were lazily exploring the natural beauty of this unique part of Oz. Broome has to be the beauty spot of this great land. Coco Eco, where we stayed is about 20 minutes north of Broome and a little slice of paradise.

Relaxed, rejuvenated and re-energised, we caught a flight to Perth and drove 3 hours south to Margaret River and the Hilltop Studios.

Cabins at Hilltop Studios

Waking up to this:

View from Hilltop Studios

Hilltop Studios is right in the heart of Margaret River on a stunning 150 acre property. We didn't see another soul on the property throughout our stay, and highly recommend the slight Swedish bent of this top notch self contained accommodation. 

Coco Eco

Lynda and James Hagan

Lot 9 Williams Road

Coconut Well

Broome 

Hilltop Studios

Claudia and Paul

Carters Road

Margaret River

Barossa Wine Tasting at The Oak Barrel

Bucketing down. Dashing through the rain drops on a Wednesday evening is not my idea of an ideal way to start a wine tasting. Or maybe it is. I deserve every sip.

A Barossa tasting of two of the stalwarts who are part of the reason this region is world renown, and two emerging which I’ve been hearing a lot about but hadn’t had the opportunity to try at The Oak Barrel.

TORBRECK

OK. Must admit, this is one of my favourite Australian wineries, it is just so good. Mr Nomad and I were in the Barossa last year and we have nothing but amazing cellar door reminisces and there are wines here tonight that I had never tried.

2009 The Steading Banc - Price $46.95

The Steading Banc being one of them. This is like a red in a glass when you feel like white. Make sense? Hmmm – 55% Roussanne 25% Marsanne 20% Viognier – RMV, catchy? Thinking so! I would like crustacea. And some peas.

2009 Les Amis Grenache - Price $210

Planted in 1901 these bush vines look like knuckles breaching the soil. This is a low yielding crop but it is amazing and, at 15.2% alcohol, a big wine. This has been aged in new French oak for 18 months. I didn’t want this wine to end. I know it will just get better with age, but this is good drinking now – 2011!

Courtesy of clarendonhills.com.au

KAESLER

2008 Weapons of Mass Seduction – Price $80

Best name of the night goes to Kaeslers 2008 WOMS Shiraz Cabernet. WOMS – Weapon of Mass Seduction. I can see men touting this line to a sleuth of women come Friday night. A 64% Shiraz and 34% Cabernet blend, winemaker Reid Bosward has nailed the best of Aussie terrior. My pick of the Kaesler bunch.   

RUSDEN

This family owned winery from the Vine Vale(this is not a typo) region of the Barossa, where son Christian Canute is winemaker.

2008 The Driftsand Grenache Shiraz - Price $32.95

Fruit, fruit, fruit. Soft tannins and juice like a punch in the face. 60% Grenache, 40% Shiraz, and the Shiraz is coming through nicely. The work this family has put in to get Grenache back and growing after an 80’s exodus has been well worth the effort. Cleared to make room for popular white varieties, grafting the Grenache back on to the vines has been a great success.

2009 Good Shepard Cabernet Malbec - Price $49.95

I’ve never had this blend. I know – rookie! Now I will drink more of this blend. Almost sweet to begin with, it finishes with soft silky tannins, and then my tasting splash is all gone. No spittoon for you my new friend!

Due to a fellow taster who seems to be a Rusden follower from way back, I find out that Rusden also do a Chenin Blanc and a Zinfandel that is worth seeking out.

TOMFOOLERY

Ben Chipman and Toby Yap now have a wine label of their own after making their mark at many Barossa wineries. And what a label – with the byline “the coming together of all things foolish”, I have a smile on my face even before I try the wine. Isn’t that what it’s all about, not taking ourselves too seriously?

2009 Black and Blue Shiraz - Price $42.95

Pleasantly surprised and then some. With vines between 30 and 150 years of age, this wine was well structured with the smooth, flowing, long lined finish I was hoping for.

2008 Artful Dodger Shiraz - Price $95

This new vintage will age well. Quite a deep purple, the flavour is there – quite earthy with lots of berries and, once laid down, will develop into a full bodied, cheeky red with which to impress. Note to self: do not drink upon purchase.

Note: Go to the Tomfoolery website! I would love to know more about the graphics – to be a part of that marketing meeting would have been amazing. Join their ‘Skullduggery Club’ for further information.

Nomad Musings

The whimsical ensures we don't take life too seriously... Food jokes are my achilles heel. Happy weekend!

Buy these letter press online from Lisa Krowinski at Sapling Press

Southern Highlands

The Southern Highlands is not yet known for its wineries but winter is the perfect time for a quick trip as it's only an hour and half south out of Sydney. Having had some family embark on a tree change, I am slowly finding little pockets of bliss in my new home away from home.

This weekend I found myself in Exeter. This is not a busy part of the Highlands. While in Bowral it can be hard to find a parking spot, Bundanoon and Exeter are a little more relaxed and slower of pace. 

Our destination is an unassuming cellar door off the main road of Exeter by the name of St Maur. This patch of land started out as a cattle farm, which it still is, but the main attraction is definitely now the wine. The southern highlands produces cool climate wines in particular chardonnay and pinot noirs.

A lone, leafless tree stands sentinel at the cellar door and we quickly make our way inside to escape the bitter winter winds. As we descend into the room, owner and winemaker Nereo welcomes us to his cellar door with all the warmth and charm of his native Italy with smile on face and bottle in hand. Barrels line both walls, old copper pots hang from the ceiling, a bowl of fresh walnuts, and a long central timber table complete the picture. 

Copper pots - not for sale but I asked!

Starting with chardonnay, a new addition to the line up, with a beautiful fresh, crisp flavour and aroma. Light yet still with the slight wooded flavour of being aged in French oak for 9 months, this will definitely work well in Sydney summer with seafood.

2007

St Maur Lot 41

Chardonnay

$12.5% alcohol

Price: $25

We are informed that everything is estate grown, with 16 acres in total under vines. We move through the rosé, pinot noir (2009), cabernet sauvignon, cabernet merlot and lastly the 2004 Pinot Noir. This is amazing. Depth of flavour, earthy, slightly sweet with a truly rich red hue. The tannins stay with you just long enough before your ready for your next sip. This wine is exceptional and only available at the cellar door. Duck is the obvious parring for this wine, add some sweet prunes or grapes, (a meal at Billy Kwong wouldn't go astray!)and I'm one happy lady. With the most expensive bottle being $30 this is excellent value wine. 

Perfect Label

Nereo knows his wine is good. There is no pushy salesman techniques, this wine sells itself. 

2004

St Maur Lot 41

Pinot Noir

12.5% alcohol

Price: $20

Concrete Blonde

33 Bayswater Road
Potts Point, NSW 2000
http://www.concreteblonde.com.au/

On a rainy tuesday night Mr. Nomad and I braved the weather for a night of....? I don't know. Reviews have been published and murmurs abound but what on earth is Concrete Blonde? 

Concrete Blonde Branding

Heading up the well trodden steps to Hugo's you see an alluring new space complete with fire pits and glowing outdoor furniture. This new space is cavernous and decked out with a new sparkly kitchen with cylindrical rotisseries front and centre, deep chocolate timber floors, glass cabinets full of wine and rows of tables waiting to be sat at. Being a tuesday and raining we were not expecting these rows to be full, yet a smattering of people both inside and out creates a nice ambience so we settle in for the evening.

At my request we are seated right in front of the kitchen with Mr. Nomad looking out to the people and the streetscape while I get to watch the team of chefs practice their dark art behind a glass balustrade. Everything is on show so the kitchen must be kept spotless and no yelling of abuse a la Gordon Ramsey. The chefs are deft as they glide along doing what they do best.

Presented with a book sized wine list that could have seen me dining alone, Mr Nomad took charge and ordered a 2008 Stellenbosch Vinum Cabernet Sauvignon from South Africa. Having visited last year and extolled the delights of said trip this was my first experience of wine from this region. The flavour of this Cabernet lingers long after the sip has been sup. Blackberry, smooth tannins, some oak and a deep purple hue create a food wine with flavour to boot. 

2008 Vinum Cabernet Sauvignon 

The menu is broken into 4 sections:

to nibble...

to start...

to carry on...

over the wood...

We start with sea scallops on sushi rice with foie gras, shiso, grapefruit and truffle. It's a fresh, sweet and sour combo which leads nicely to the pressed duck salad, the presentation of which is divine - slate is the new plate! This is where the wine is matching really nicely - and setting up our mains. The hawkesbury river pencil squid with radicchio, potato, white beans and a green herb sauce is my favourite dish of the night. Mr Nomad is a huge squid fan - I tend to find it generally rubbery and covered in tempura so rarely order. Tonight it was succulent, charred, and tender. Head chef Patrick Dang is playing with texture and flavour and this dish is demonstrating the confidence the owners have in backing him with a top notch fitout. 

The pork neck special done on the wood fire rotisserie is quite rich with a sweetened jus and seasonal vegetables. It is very strong on flavour so anyone after a perfect piece of pork with some punch would love this.

The accompaniments are an interesting bunch - and quinoa being my new favourite "superfood" option - not a cereal and not a grain, the grilled broccolini with quinoa, hazelnut and lemon was delish. Naan, although cooked nicely is more of a flat bread with eggplant relish and cucumber raita, and sops up any sauce residue nicely. 

Dessert on a tuesday is rare but Mr Nomad couldn't go past the guanaja chocolate valrhona 70%, with pistachio, navel orange and olive oil jam. Very rich, very decadent and very naughty! 

All in all, this is a very Sydney restaurant in a very Sydney location. It feels as if its been here forever and should age quite nicely. The slightly elevated location befits a restaurant that commands, and deserves, attention. 

ChinChin Melbourne

125 Flinders Lane,
Melbourne 3000

Walking up Flinders Lane with a post-Movida glow, discussing our dinner plans (at this stage still undecided) we spot a very cool looking restaurant. "This is the one the Movida guy told us about!". Open just 4 weeks now, ChinChin is the newest operation from Andrew McConnell and Chris Lucas with ex-Jimmy Liks Chef Andrew Gimber.


And what a place!


From the team at Projects of the Imagination the interior, with it's high pressed metal ceilings, graffiti like posters on the walls and a whole bunch of timber and steel columns and, along with a very striking menu, led to a decision made. Just when you thought that Flinders Lane and its ubiquitous corner sites were full to bursting, this minx comes along for a share of the pie.

Interior View

Back  a few hours later for a late nosh we were not disappointed. A pet hate of mine is when people judge a new restaurant too harshly. 3 weeks old, there will always be teething problems. This is a big space with an ambitious menu and a bunch of new staff learning as they go. Yes, the vegetables were the same in a few of the dishes - this to me says "smart operator" - less wastage and cheaper when buying in bulk.


The Wine Guy (an apron worn with these words just in case you missed him) assists in choosing the 2009 Garagiste Chardonnay from Mornington Peninsula. A perfect example of how fresh and well matched a young Chardonnay can be with Asian flavours. Very tempted by the  wine exclusively made for Chin Chin made by Yabby Lake winemaker Tom Carson.

2009 Garagiste

Chardonnay 

Mornington Peninsula

13% alcohol

$65 menu pricing

Being an avid menu reader, I felt the need to order off the menu. If making another decision is a bit of a stretch after a long day, "Feed Me!" will create a surprise banquet menu.

Very cool menu

We start with the kingfish sashimi w Lime, Chilli, Coconut and Thai Basil. The coconut cream drizzled over the top with the fresh lime is a match made in piscatorial heaven.

The seared Scallops on the Half shell w Crispy Sweet Pork and Green Chilli Nahm Jim is my preferred surf and turf option - mouthfuls of salty, sweet goodness.

The Green Curry of Rockling, Eggplant, Snake Beans and Thai Basil, Jumbo Clams wok tossed w Black beans and Chilli and the Twice Cooked Hopkins River Beef Short Rib w Saw Tooth Coriander and Prik Nahm Pla was my pick of the more substantial dishes. 


Not being so partial to baby corn, the vegetables were a little of a distraction but the flavours in the dishes were rich and intense. A little more gravy and this would have made the side of Chin Chin Roti that we ordered sing (one of my favourite things from my days in India). 

There are so many things on this menu I want to come back for - time to find another excuse to flit down to the great southern city!

Movida Melbourne

1 Hosier Lane
Melbourne 3000
www.movida.com.au

The ideal Saturday is spent exploring this beloved city with nothing but time on your hands and an empty stomach. Lucky for me, my saturday in Melbourne filled the criteria. A morning of croissants from Babka followed by hours of walking the intricate lane ways of the city ending in Hosier Lane and hello Movida. 

This has to be one of my favourite city restaurants. Movida opened in 2003 and has been on the up ever since. I love to sit at the sub-terranean bar and watch people (read: wedding parties) walk up and down the cobbled laneway splayed with graffiti. 

Hosier Lane

Mr Nomad and I came here on our first trip to Melbourne many moons ago so this is a sentimental fave, the food and wine living up to the memory. Now I am not an anchovy girl but I'm working on it. The larger white anchovy option yes, the darker, more pungent option is in the 'very rarely if ever' category. Yet put these little suckers of salty, fishy goodness on a piece of toasted sourdough with a dollop of smoked tomato sorbet and you have a burst of flavour that coats the tastebuds and welcomes that first sip of Spanish Tempranillo that complete the picture. The Marques de Riscal 'Reserva' is a well rounded, deep cherry coloured drop with soft tannins. Not so well matched to the wonderful Pollo Escabache al Miguel - spiced chicken (perhaps the 2010 Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Chardonnay from Stathbogie Ranges Victoria may have suited?) but I couldn't go past this tasty mouthful. 

2008

Glaymond 'El Abuelo'

Granache
Barossa Valley

2005
Marques de Riscal 'Reserva'

Tempranillo

Rioja Spain

Then the 'main' meal - Raciones. Movida is a Spanish tapas restaurant which divides its dishes between 'Tapa' and 'Raciones'. Not huge, but not small. Perfect to share. The Pulpo - chargrilled   octopus with house made chorizo and chickpeas is a taste sensation - always one for surf and turf, the octopi and swine combination is fast becoming a personal favourite. The earthiness of the chickpeas created a well balanced dish.  

Finally, having spent some time in Spain last year, seeing Jamon aged 24 months with Pan Catalan brought back memories of hot summer days in Barcelona's El Born district eating plates full of jamon with tomato and garlic covered toast. And this is what we got - huge thumbs up for this simple combination which showcases the produce. The Jamones is from the Carrasco family in Spain using only the finest 'Paletilla' which is only the meat from the front legs of the Iberico pigs. These are a certain breed of pig bred in a small area of Spain who feed on 'bellota' or acorns. 

Image/ finofoodandwine 

This dish came just in time to try the 2008 Glaymond 'El Abuelo'

Granache from the Barossa Valley. Silky smooth with a punch of pepper and spices and the earthy aroma of a well balanced grenaché, could not have been more perfect with the tart tomato and salty jamon. Almost felt like we were eating this wine!

With our bellies full and our whistles wet, we emerge to a greying Melbourne afternoon where we roll in to the taxi just in time before the heavens really do unleash. 

Canberra Wine District - Day 1

Whod’ve thunk it? When discussing our holiday plans with friends the general reaction was "Canberra? For wine?!" With just a dash of smugness we’re off. Yes, Canberra District - I say district because most of the actual wineries are in New South Wales. This cool climate wine district, a 2.5hr - 3hr drive south of Sydney, consists of 3 main areas - Murrumbateman, Hall and Bungendore/Lake George roughly about 3 hours from Sydney.

Map of the Canberra Wine District

After a full day of city/coastal/southern highlands meandering, Mr Nomad, Charlie and I arrived at the Ginninderry Homestead run by the very amiable Sue and Amelia. This mother daughter team have created a beautiful, grand and inviting B&B. The clincher? Dog friendly! Charlie was more than welcome and was very much at home with the resident dogs and the running stream going through the property. Travelling with dog has it's challenges, mainly where to lay our heads...

I should point out that our car has some very strict guidelines. Firstly, I am the navigator de jour, Mr Nomad is the driver and Charlie demands the driver window be opened whenever he so wishes. Despite the cold Canberra evenings and crisp morning breeze, if Charlie decides he needs fresh air, Mr Nomad obliges him and hence the window can goes up and down like a yo-yo.

HILLS OF HALL

About 15 minutes from Ginninderry, our first stop on our self-made wine tour is Brindabella Hills. Established in 1986, Roger and Faye Harris have created a beautiful introduction to this region. One of the first notable stops on the way to Murrumbateman, we take in the view over the Brindabella Range and the Murrumbidgee Lake, a breathtaking vista as we begin tasting very young, quality wines.

While I'm not a rosé drinker (I say this however the cellar now has a whole section dedicated to Australian Rosé - I think its because I never know what to cook for it...), the Brindabella Hills 2008 Wild Rosé is a beautiful example. A blend of Cabernet Franc and the emerging Italian variety Sangiovese, a beautiful rose bouquet and rose flavour comes through. After commenting on the intense nose of this wine, Roger informs us that wines produced in the "Hills of Hall" area are known for the strong aromas.

Rosé looks set to become the drink of choice for ladies who lunch. Easy to drink, pretty to look at and drinkable with most lunch options - your salads, right through to your steak and lamb options. 

Brindabella Hills

2008 Wild Rose

13% alcohol

Price $18

The Aureus Chardonnay Viognier was exceptional. The first time I had tasted a blend of the two, this drop is well worth seeking out. Apricot flavours with a very long line, this wine will age very well.

Brindabella Hills

2008 Aureus Chardonnay Viognier

13% alcohol

Price: $20

Driving out of Brindabella Hills winery and back towards the Barton Highway another winery caught my attention, Pankhurst Wines. Two things struck me about this winery - first being a family owned, small production winery using two prominent wine makers - Sue Carpenter and Dr Roger Harris, and secondly the amazing vista. Hence my disappointment when we arrive at the cellar door. There are glimpses between the shed, that doubles as the cellar door, and the family home, but a beautiful large window or deck here would truly make this a destination winery for the region. 

So to the wine. Having an array of whites and reds to sample including a sparkling Cabernet, made for an interesting tasting experience. Mr Nomad has a marked affinity for said drop as did our fellow tasters, so there was a lot of talk on what to eat while imbibing. Duck with plum sauce and star anise seemed to be the stand out which had us buying a bottle. It was quite dry and intriguing though the bubbles in a sparkling red really just confuse me. However I am in the minority - I have noticed sparkling reds popping up in a myriad of grape varieties - this being the first sparkling cabernet I've come across.

Pankhurst Wines

2004 The Adela Sparkling Cabernet

Price: $25.00 

MURRUMBATEMAN

Next stop is a stalwart of the region. Shaw Vineyard has had very favourable reviews from Australia's top wine commentators so I was looking forward to some true examples of the region. Now if small, quaint or  'boutique' is what you are looking for this is not the place. If you happen to be with a large group of people or need to load up on some carbs to soldier on to surrounding vineyards this is your place. People everywhere and the staff are very attentive and swift in their approach. At the onsite restaurant Flint in the Vines (sister restaurant to Flint Dining Room and Bar in Canberra), pizzas are flying out of the wood fired oven and salads tossed with aplomb. 

On to the cellar door, this is not a winery where I'm talking to Mr. Graeme Shaw himself. Shaw is well passed the one man show that a much younger label would involve. This is a professional operation where the staff representing the vineyard are knowledgeable about what is on tasting but miss that inescapable passion of the winemaker themselves. The Sparkling Semillon - Cielo which has no year associated is a quality quaffing sparkling style that suits the Australian summer requisite bubbles at the afternoon BBQ. 

Shaw Vineyard

Cielo - Sparkling Semillon

Price: $20         

A garrulous Ken Helm greeted us at his Helm Wine cellar door like he was welcoming us in to his lounge room. Lo and behold this is not a lounge room or really a cellar door in the traditional sense but a school! From 1888 when this building was erected until 1940 this was the Toual School House. It was removed and then returned by the Helm family in the 1980's. How do I know this? Courtesy of Ken, who has a way with words, a taste for history and a treasure trove of Trivia. 

Charlie at Helm Winery

Ken Helm was awarded an Order of Australia in 2010 for his contribution to the Australian wine industry. With a passion for Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and the Canberra Wine Region this was truly an experience to savor. A proud father of three who has daughter Stephanie as his fellow wine maker, Stephanie's Selection 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon is exceptional. Bold, peppery and ready to drink now, this is a wonderful example of the reds being produced in the region. 

Here, the prices reflect the quality, reputation and sheer tenacity of wine producers who has hung in there when most other land owners in the region grazing sheep and cattle thought their grape growing neighbours crazy. Well worth the extra coin, you really can't go wrong with an of the wines in the Helm stable and, even thought they're ready to drink upon release, would also benefit with a little lie down.

Helm Wines

2006 Stephanie's Selection Cabernet Sauvignon

14% alcohol

Price: $52 

From one of the regions most established wineries to one of the youngest, Yarrh Wines. Yarrh translates to "running water" in the local Aboriginal dialect and  Fiona Wholohan, the chief winemaker, is producing quality wines from young vines, including this sweet, acidic Riesling.

Yarrh Wines

2010 Canberra District Riesling

11% alcohol

Price:$18 

With the sky ablaze courtesy of the afternoon sun, we headed back to Ginninderry Homestead for a quick kip prior to dinner at Grazing Restaurant. 

Sunset over the Brindabella Hills

Now Ginninderry and Grazing are not close together, however Mr Nomad, knowing my affinity for finding the best, willingly drove the forty kilometres, on small pitch black country back roads with all manner of native Australian wildlife that have an affinity for getting up close and personal with the oncoming bright lights of a motor vehicle screaming along at 100kph, for a good meal and the elusive Collector Shiraz. Here, we found both. If ever you see a Collector Shiraz on a wine list do yourself, and your dining companion, a favour. Grazing Restaurant grows a lot of their own vegetables and herbs and use as much local produce as possible - not hard considering the region! 


Mr Nomad had the stand out entreé of house made felafel which was smokey and accompanied by a rustic ratatouille, while my main of confit duck leg with smoked duck breast with cauliflower and black sausage was crisp and full of flavour. 

Collector

2009 Marked Tree Shiraz

13% alcohol

Price: $26