On a rainy tuesday night Mr. Nomad and I braved the weather for a night of....? I don't know. Reviews have been published and murmurs abound but what on earth is Concrete Blonde?
Concrete Blonde Branding
Heading up the well trodden steps to Hugo's you see an alluring new space complete with fire pits and glowing outdoor furniture. This new space is cavernous and decked out with a new sparkly kitchen with cylindrical rotisseries front and centre, deep chocolate timber floors, glass cabinets full of wine and rows of tables waiting to be sat at. Being a tuesday and raining we were not expecting these rows to be full, yet a smattering of people both inside and out creates a nice ambience so we settle in for the evening.
At my request we are seated right in front of the kitchen with Mr. Nomad looking out to the people and the streetscape while I get to watch the team of chefs practice their dark art behind a glass balustrade. Everything is on show so the kitchen must be kept spotless and no yelling of abuse a la Gordon Ramsey. The chefs are deft as they glide along doing what they do best.
Presented with a book sized wine list that could have seen me dining alone, Mr Nomad took charge and ordered a 2008 Stellenbosch Vinum Cabernet Sauvignon from South Africa. Having visited last year and extolled the delights of said trip this was my first experience of wine from this region. The flavour of this Cabernet lingers long after the sip has been sup. Blackberry, smooth tannins, some oak and a deep purple hue create a food wine with flavour to boot.
2008 Vinum Cabernet Sauvignon
The menu is broken into 4 sections:
to nibble...
to start...
to carry on...
over the wood...
We start with sea scallops on sushi rice with foie gras, shiso, grapefruit and truffle. It's a fresh, sweet and sour combo which leads nicely to the pressed duck salad, the presentation of which is divine - slate is the new plate! This is where the wine is matching really nicely - and setting up our mains. The hawkesbury river pencil squid with radicchio, potato, white beans and a green herb sauce is my favourite dish of the night. Mr Nomad is a huge squid fan - I tend to find it generally rubbery and covered in tempura so rarely order. Tonight it was succulent, charred, and tender. Head chef Patrick Dang is playing with texture and flavour and this dish is demonstrating the confidence the owners have in backing him with a top notch fitout.
The pork neck special done on the wood fire rotisserie is quite rich with a sweetened jus and seasonal vegetables. It is very strong on flavour so anyone after a perfect piece of pork with some punch would love this.
The accompaniments are an interesting bunch - and quinoa being my new favourite "superfood" option - not a cereal and not a grain, the grilled broccolini with quinoa, hazelnut and lemon was delish. Naan, although cooked nicely is more of a flat bread with eggplant relish and cucumber raita, and sops up any sauce residue nicely.
Dessert on a tuesday is rare but Mr Nomad couldn't go past the guanaja chocolate valrhona 70%, with pistachio, navel orange and olive oil jam. Very rich, very decadent and very naughty!
All in all, this is a very Sydney restaurant in a very Sydney location. It feels as if its been here forever and should age quite nicely. The slightly elevated location befits a restaurant that commands, and deserves, attention.
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