Margaret River Escapade

The Margaret River region on Australia's West Coast is simply stunning. A two hour drive south of Perth reveals a coast line of unrivalled beauty. Unlike the East Coast, there are huge stretches of beaches and gorgeous cliff faces, and little inlets that are not completely overrun with beach houses, tourist buses or homo-sapiens. Surfers, appearing as dots in the water, are the only indication that civilisation is a stones throw away.

Coastline of Margaret River

Four days in this sprawling wine region won't come close to being time enough is to cover everything however here are my recommendations when visiting.

Fraser Gallop

This a winery that came highly recommended. This is also a winery with no cellar door...a small issue that is overcome with a little tenacity and the luck of senior wine maker Kate Morgan on site, willing to take Mr Nomad and I through to a tasting. Kate really knows her stuff, and her passion for what she does, and this vineyard, is palpable. Grapes here are dry grown to concentrate the fruit and are hand picked. There is an impressive selection of well-refined wines on offer.

While all the wines we tried were excellent, the 2010 Chardonnay was smooth and fresh and completely unexpected. A little more acidity than your usual chardonnay with winter fruit flavours like quince and fig undertones makes this a wine that will cellar well but you may find difficult to.

Fraser Gallop

2010 Chardonnay  

13.5% alcohol
Price $24

Juniper Estate

Delightful, and backs it up with really good wine. Really good. With Steve at the cellar door, and Opera playing in the background in a little timber-paneled room by a stream complete with ducklings, this is my kinda tastin'. A more picturesque setting? I think not!

This way to the lovely cellar door!

Juniper is old school style with a whole lot of punch. What hits me the most with these wines is the aroma. The nose is so fragrant, you don’t know whether to drink it or put it in a vase. The Shiraz and the Cabernet Sauvignon tied for equal first. With vines from 1973, and small amounts of Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot the Cabernet Sauvignon is so savoury, I couldn’t imagine needing a meal with it. Made from dry grown vines (seems to be a trend with these older vines), the tannins are well developed, as are the full fruit flavours.

The Shiraz is smooth, tannic and white pepperish. Now, I hate white pepper, but when red wines have that slight white pepper taste, I tend to like it. Go figure!

Juniper Estate

2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

14.5% alcohol
Price: $50

2007 Estate Shiraz

14.5% alcohol
Price: $34

Leeuwin Estate

At our most southern port of call is Leeuwin Estate. Planting my feet on the large open grassed area below the cellar and restaurant, this is pure joy. With a sense of anticipation, a smiling sun and the waft of wine in the air, it is off to the cellar door. I have loved Leeuwin Estate Art Series Riesling for many years, and was looking forward to trying other wines on offer.

The ’07 Chardonnay is very different to the upper Margaret River. Richer, deeper in colour and a nose of oaked, spiced goodness. I left this to breath a little to see it open up and warm up. After just 20 minutes or so, the bouquet on this wine was all lychee, peaches and honey. Viscous and luscious mouthfeel reveals a headiness of flavour quite unexpected. Love a Chardonnay bursting with flavour and this one truly is.

Leeuwin Estate

2007 Chardonnay

13% alcohol
Price: $85

Cullen

Much smaller cellar door than I was expecting, which I love. I have a similar sense of excitement on seeing the small timber building as I did when we visited Clonakilla in the Canberra Region. The service here at the cellar door was up there with the best and made this experience that more beautiful. Our host was knowledgeable and passionate about both the wine and the history of the label. Cullen was outstanding. While I was expecting wine that was exceptional, the service and the space really made this a treasure of the region. Walking away with a bottle of the Madeleine makes me feel like I have a treasure from the Cullen family trove.

Cullen

2009 Diana Madeleine

12.5% alcohol
$112 

Edwards Wines

Edwards Wines, which we have tasted and loved East side, recently rescued a meal for Mr Nomad and I in Broome. The wine list at this restaurant, who's name we dare not speak, was seriously lacking quality wines but happened to have a bottle of Edwards Chardonnay on the list. Hallelujah! At a tasting in Sydney over a year ago, we met Michael Edwards, one half of this brother duo. At the cellar door we meet Christo Edwards, the consummate host and viticulturist. 

The story behind the label has to be one of the most compelling on offer. The little gold plane trailed by dots of gold over a world map represents the journey their father Brian Edwards took in 1990 from England to Australia in his 1943 Tiger Moth Matilda. (Must say here that the graphic designer has done a stellar job – in the cut-throat world of wine marketing, where the label has a direct relationship with your consumer, they have nailed it!).

But to the wine. My pick would have to be the 2010 Chardonnay, with 10 months in french oak, it has a subtle smokiness which is still crisp. And the flavour goes on for miles.

And yes, while its the cabernet sauvignon this district is famous for, I must say the Shiraz, from Edwards and up and down "Margie's", is sublime. This was our first stop and Mr Nomad being a Shiraz lover, found the 2008 Shiraz smooth, big and bold with lots of berries and a fragrant nose. Pre-conceptions gone!


(Ps - check out their VERY cool website here)

Edwards
2010 Chardonnay

12% alcohol

Price: $32

Pierro

Having read about Pierro, I was happy to find this right in the heart of the region. With building works happening for their new offices, this charming building was a little more rustic than per 'uge. Upon negotiating the gamut of bricks and mortar and entering, this place has some charm! Trudy introduced us to the Shiraz Viognier that was smooth yet not too sweet with length on the palate. I felt the urge to "let them eat steak". While we were a little confused by the Italian name and Chinese characters on the walls and bottles, the LTCF was the stand out. Now of course being back in Sydney, the name Pierro keeps popping up. On wine lists, friends lips, write ups - love when that happens.

Pierro

LTCF
14% alcohol

Price:$32

Cape Mentelle

And the rain starts. We buy the biggest umbrella with Cape Mentelle written across each segment of the 'brella, we now feel truly submerged in this region. We are now heading down to the southern area of Margaret River, stopping in here to try some Zinfandel. Mr Nomad's love of this full bodied, savoury variety knows no bounds. The nose on this one is really jammy and coffee like. The colour is dark and rich and the flavour is full of chocolate. Planted in 1975, the dry grown bush vines are producing a texturally rich and complex drop which is a just reward for what seems like quite a labour intensive grape.

Sheep a-grazin' in the vineyard

Cape Mentelle
2008 Zinfandel
15% alcohol
Price: $49

Xanadu

Chardonnay! I love me a chard, and the 2009 Reserve Chardonnay is sublime. This naturally fermented wine is from some of the oldest vines on the property. Quite zesty in flavour, the white peach and stone fruit characteristics are offset beautifully by the creamy, textural mouth feel that lingers forever....


Xanadu
2009 Reserve Chardonnay 
%14 alcohol
Price: $85

Gralyn

Driving past Gralyn as we wind our way up and down the region, interest was piqued. A timely email from Wine Master Rob Geddes had us stopping into this cellar door as we are heading back to Perth.

Established in 1975, this family run winery only sell direct to the public (lucky we stopped!). Yes, the wines are pricey but they are truly sublime. From the Cabernet based Rosé full of strawberry flavours but not too sweet, to the full bodied reds, subtle flavor is the G-O.

My pick would be the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. After 16 months in new French Oak, chocolate, liquorice and black fruits hit the tongue with aplomb and slides right down into your insides to say "hello". While I am a fan of the 'drink now' wine philosophy, I hope I can wait until it develops a little more before opening!

Gralyn Estate

2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

14.8% alcohol
Price: $110

Margaret River Escapade

After 6 days of this:

Cape Levique

and this:

James Price Point

And a little more of this:

From Coco Eco Retreat

To 4 days of Margaret River bliss. From Broome up to Cape Levique and back, Mr Nomad and I were lazily exploring the natural beauty of this unique part of Oz. Broome has to be the beauty spot of this great land. Coco Eco, where we stayed is about 20 minutes north of Broome and a little slice of paradise.

Relaxed, rejuvenated and re-energised, we caught a flight to Perth and drove 3 hours south to Margaret River and the Hilltop Studios.

Cabins at Hilltop Studios

Waking up to this:

View from Hilltop Studios

Hilltop Studios is right in the heart of Margaret River on a stunning 150 acre property. We didn't see another soul on the property throughout our stay, and highly recommend the slight Swedish bent of this top notch self contained accommodation. 

Coco Eco

Lynda and James Hagan

Lot 9 Williams Road

Coconut Well

Broome 

Hilltop Studios

Claudia and Paul

Carters Road

Margaret River

Barossa Wine Tasting at The Oak Barrel

Bucketing down. Dashing through the rain drops on a Wednesday evening is not my idea of an ideal way to start a wine tasting. Or maybe it is. I deserve every sip.

A Barossa tasting of two of the stalwarts who are part of the reason this region is world renown, and two emerging which I’ve been hearing a lot about but hadn’t had the opportunity to try at The Oak Barrel.

TORBRECK

OK. Must admit, this is one of my favourite Australian wineries, it is just so good. Mr Nomad and I were in the Barossa last year and we have nothing but amazing cellar door reminisces and there are wines here tonight that I had never tried.

2009 The Steading Banc - Price $46.95

The Steading Banc being one of them. This is like a red in a glass when you feel like white. Make sense? Hmmm – 55% Roussanne 25% Marsanne 20% Viognier – RMV, catchy? Thinking so! I would like crustacea. And some peas.

2009 Les Amis Grenache - Price $210

Planted in 1901 these bush vines look like knuckles breaching the soil. This is a low yielding crop but it is amazing and, at 15.2% alcohol, a big wine. This has been aged in new French oak for 18 months. I didn’t want this wine to end. I know it will just get better with age, but this is good drinking now – 2011!

Courtesy of clarendonhills.com.au

KAESLER

2008 Weapons of Mass Seduction – Price $80

Best name of the night goes to Kaeslers 2008 WOMS Shiraz Cabernet. WOMS – Weapon of Mass Seduction. I can see men touting this line to a sleuth of women come Friday night. A 64% Shiraz and 34% Cabernet blend, winemaker Reid Bosward has nailed the best of Aussie terrior. My pick of the Kaesler bunch.   

RUSDEN

This family owned winery from the Vine Vale(this is not a typo) region of the Barossa, where son Christian Canute is winemaker.

2008 The Driftsand Grenache Shiraz - Price $32.95

Fruit, fruit, fruit. Soft tannins and juice like a punch in the face. 60% Grenache, 40% Shiraz, and the Shiraz is coming through nicely. The work this family has put in to get Grenache back and growing after an 80’s exodus has been well worth the effort. Cleared to make room for popular white varieties, grafting the Grenache back on to the vines has been a great success.

2009 Good Shepard Cabernet Malbec - Price $49.95

I’ve never had this blend. I know – rookie! Now I will drink more of this blend. Almost sweet to begin with, it finishes with soft silky tannins, and then my tasting splash is all gone. No spittoon for you my new friend!

Due to a fellow taster who seems to be a Rusden follower from way back, I find out that Rusden also do a Chenin Blanc and a Zinfandel that is worth seeking out.

TOMFOOLERY

Ben Chipman and Toby Yap now have a wine label of their own after making their mark at many Barossa wineries. And what a label – with the byline “the coming together of all things foolish”, I have a smile on my face even before I try the wine. Isn’t that what it’s all about, not taking ourselves too seriously?

2009 Black and Blue Shiraz - Price $42.95

Pleasantly surprised and then some. With vines between 30 and 150 years of age, this wine was well structured with the smooth, flowing, long lined finish I was hoping for.

2008 Artful Dodger Shiraz - Price $95

This new vintage will age well. Quite a deep purple, the flavour is there – quite earthy with lots of berries and, once laid down, will develop into a full bodied, cheeky red with which to impress. Note to self: do not drink upon purchase.

Note: Go to the Tomfoolery website! I would love to know more about the graphics – to be a part of that marketing meeting would have been amazing. Join their ‘Skullduggery Club’ for further information.

Nomad Musings

The whimsical ensures we don't take life too seriously... Food jokes are my achilles heel. Happy weekend!

Buy these letter press online from Lisa Krowinski at Sapling Press

Southern Highlands

The Southern Highlands is not yet known for its wineries but winter is the perfect time for a quick trip as it's only an hour and half south out of Sydney. Having had some family embark on a tree change, I am slowly finding little pockets of bliss in my new home away from home.

This weekend I found myself in Exeter. This is not a busy part of the Highlands. While in Bowral it can be hard to find a parking spot, Bundanoon and Exeter are a little more relaxed and slower of pace. 

Our destination is an unassuming cellar door off the main road of Exeter by the name of St Maur. This patch of land started out as a cattle farm, which it still is, but the main attraction is definitely now the wine. The southern highlands produces cool climate wines in particular chardonnay and pinot noirs.

A lone, leafless tree stands sentinel at the cellar door and we quickly make our way inside to escape the bitter winter winds. As we descend into the room, owner and winemaker Nereo welcomes us to his cellar door with all the warmth and charm of his native Italy with smile on face and bottle in hand. Barrels line both walls, old copper pots hang from the ceiling, a bowl of fresh walnuts, and a long central timber table complete the picture. 

Copper pots - not for sale but I asked!

Starting with chardonnay, a new addition to the line up, with a beautiful fresh, crisp flavour and aroma. Light yet still with the slight wooded flavour of being aged in French oak for 9 months, this will definitely work well in Sydney summer with seafood.

2007

St Maur Lot 41

Chardonnay

$12.5% alcohol

Price: $25

We are informed that everything is estate grown, with 16 acres in total under vines. We move through the rosé, pinot noir (2009), cabernet sauvignon, cabernet merlot and lastly the 2004 Pinot Noir. This is amazing. Depth of flavour, earthy, slightly sweet with a truly rich red hue. The tannins stay with you just long enough before your ready for your next sip. This wine is exceptional and only available at the cellar door. Duck is the obvious parring for this wine, add some sweet prunes or grapes, (a meal at Billy Kwong wouldn't go astray!)and I'm one happy lady. With the most expensive bottle being $30 this is excellent value wine. 

Perfect Label

Nereo knows his wine is good. There is no pushy salesman techniques, this wine sells itself. 

2004

St Maur Lot 41

Pinot Noir

12.5% alcohol

Price: $20

Concrete Blonde

33 Bayswater Road
Potts Point, NSW 2000
http://www.concreteblonde.com.au/

On a rainy tuesday night Mr. Nomad and I braved the weather for a night of....? I don't know. Reviews have been published and murmurs abound but what on earth is Concrete Blonde? 

Concrete Blonde Branding

Heading up the well trodden steps to Hugo's you see an alluring new space complete with fire pits and glowing outdoor furniture. This new space is cavernous and decked out with a new sparkly kitchen with cylindrical rotisseries front and centre, deep chocolate timber floors, glass cabinets full of wine and rows of tables waiting to be sat at. Being a tuesday and raining we were not expecting these rows to be full, yet a smattering of people both inside and out creates a nice ambience so we settle in for the evening.

At my request we are seated right in front of the kitchen with Mr. Nomad looking out to the people and the streetscape while I get to watch the team of chefs practice their dark art behind a glass balustrade. Everything is on show so the kitchen must be kept spotless and no yelling of abuse a la Gordon Ramsey. The chefs are deft as they glide along doing what they do best.

Presented with a book sized wine list that could have seen me dining alone, Mr Nomad took charge and ordered a 2008 Stellenbosch Vinum Cabernet Sauvignon from South Africa. Having visited last year and extolled the delights of said trip this was my first experience of wine from this region. The flavour of this Cabernet lingers long after the sip has been sup. Blackberry, smooth tannins, some oak and a deep purple hue create a food wine with flavour to boot. 

2008 Vinum Cabernet Sauvignon 

The menu is broken into 4 sections:

to nibble...

to start...

to carry on...

over the wood...

We start with sea scallops on sushi rice with foie gras, shiso, grapefruit and truffle. It's a fresh, sweet and sour combo which leads nicely to the pressed duck salad, the presentation of which is divine - slate is the new plate! This is where the wine is matching really nicely - and setting up our mains. The hawkesbury river pencil squid with radicchio, potato, white beans and a green herb sauce is my favourite dish of the night. Mr Nomad is a huge squid fan - I tend to find it generally rubbery and covered in tempura so rarely order. Tonight it was succulent, charred, and tender. Head chef Patrick Dang is playing with texture and flavour and this dish is demonstrating the confidence the owners have in backing him with a top notch fitout. 

The pork neck special done on the wood fire rotisserie is quite rich with a sweetened jus and seasonal vegetables. It is very strong on flavour so anyone after a perfect piece of pork with some punch would love this.

The accompaniments are an interesting bunch - and quinoa being my new favourite "superfood" option - not a cereal and not a grain, the grilled broccolini with quinoa, hazelnut and lemon was delish. Naan, although cooked nicely is more of a flat bread with eggplant relish and cucumber raita, and sops up any sauce residue nicely. 

Dessert on a tuesday is rare but Mr Nomad couldn't go past the guanaja chocolate valrhona 70%, with pistachio, navel orange and olive oil jam. Very rich, very decadent and very naughty! 

All in all, this is a very Sydney restaurant in a very Sydney location. It feels as if its been here forever and should age quite nicely. The slightly elevated location befits a restaurant that commands, and deserves, attention.